Resmed S9 Elite Teardown with pictures

palerider wrote:

JGaspar wrote:The flow sensor. This rubber that I told is the tunnel rubber of baffle.
I'll just spread oil too thin, not drip.
But what kind of oil will not deteriorate the tunnel rubber?

there are two tubes on the flow sensor, again, I wouldn't put *ANY* oil of any sort on there. it never had oil on it, it shouldn't have oil on it. that's all I'm going to say on the matter.

When you disassembled S9, did you note that the board rises 1-2 millimeters after you remove screws of pcb? It's normal?

JGaspar wrote:When you disassembled S9, did you note that the board rises 1-2 millimeters after you remove screws of pcb? It's normal?

I've not paid any attention to that when removing or replacing the board, but it doesn't surprise me, there should be a little springyness in the silicone tubes that lead to the pressure and flow sensors, otherwise they won't seat as well.

thanks for the detailed tear-down instructions and pictures!

Does anybody know how to remove smell from the rubber seals?

I have dismantled my S9 machine, and the big transparent rubber part holding the motor and sealing the two sections of the case has a bit of a smell. I tried soaking it in water with dishwasher liquid, or soap, but does not seem to work...

you might try Vinegar.

Hi Nash,
thank you so much for your helpful information. I'm sure this is what my Resmed S9 needs as it has a whistling sound coming out of the machine. Between Steve and I, I'm hoping we can do this, to save sending it interstate for someone to have a look at it and then quote! With me using this machine, it has been disturbing mine and Steve's sleep with the whistling noise and and air leaks that may happen. Can be challenging to get used to wearing a mask and that tube during your sleep.
Cheers!
Jen.

Any one had an experience with mold or mildew build up? I live in the tropics (US Virgin Islands) and mold accumulates everywhere in this warm humid climate. So I want to be sure my unit stays mold free as possible. I appreciate the tear-down instructions but obliviously want to avoid that at all cost since the blower housing, as you point out, is a sealed assembly. Have two units both over two years old. If is true there are no user serviceable parts how long before i need to replace them or have these professionally inspected? Any advice would be appreciated unless its similar to Captain Snark.

Thank you for sharing. I follow your instruction and clean my S9 to remove bad smell successfully.

Sleepless Wonder wrote:Any one had an experience with mold or mildew build up? I live in the tropics (US Virgin Islands) and mold accumulates everywhere in this warm humid climate. So I want to be sure my unit stays mold free as possible. I appreciate the tear-down instructions but obliviously want to avoid that at all cost since the blower housing, as you point out, is a sealed assembly. Have two units both over two years old. If is true there are no user serviceable parts how long before i need to replace them or have these professionally inspected? Any advice would be appreciated unless its similar to Captain Snark.

Unless it smells bad, I would leave it alone.

I did acquire one s9 adapt that I still have that had a musty smell, and dismantling and washing out the two dark spongy inserts cured the problem.

You can clean just about every part in the machine if you want to.

Of course don't get the computer board wet or broken.

Great article, I had to tear mine apart and clean it out due to somehow running it for an unknown period without a filter, the article saved me from tearing it up, disassembled it and blew it out with air and wiped it down, cleaned all the dust and dirt out and working like new. However as far as trying to replace any parts, after 5 years a new machine would be better and most cost effective.

Thanks for sharing

An excellent step-by-step instructional photo show to help with all the unknown clips of the CPAP machine. I followed it and took it apart without any trouble. Everyone should do this after 2 years. You might be surprised how stained it can become. It's all clean now. Thanks for your help.

WindyCity4134 wrote:An excellent step-by-step instructional photo show to help with all the unknown clips of the CPAP machine. I followed it and took it apart without any trouble. Everyone should do this after 2 years. You might be surprised how stained it can become. It's all clean now. Thanks for your help.

Only if you have a working spare, or it's someone elses dirt and dust. I'm sure if you turn on the lights on your house, other things need cleaned worse. Jim

Those that tore into their ResMed S9, which direction were the ribs on the off white airflow baffle tube? Were they facing the input side or the output side?

I see the part looks the same on the inside but I believe the ribs were designed by ResMed for a reason. My theory is the ribbed side should be on the input side and their purpose is to direct turbulent air back over the tube and into the baffle tube.

Maybe this quiets the machine by a very small amount, or something. I've switched it both directions and can't tell, maybe it is too subtle to notice.

My baffle tube was on the output side, however my used machine 11,000 hours might have been serviced because it was super clean inside.

freetimecreations wrote:Those that tore into their ResMed S9, which direction were the ribs on the off white airflow baffle tube? Were they facing the input side or the output side?

I see the part looks the same on the inside but I believe the ribs were designed by ResMed for a reason. My theory is the ribbed side
should be on the input side and their purpose is to direct turbulent air back over the tube and into the baffle tube.
Maybe this quiets the machine by a very small amount, or something. I've switched it both directions and can't tell, maybe it is too subtle to notice.
My baffle tube was on the output side, however my used machine 11,000 hours might have been serviced because it was super clean inside.

I just disassembled a very dusty S9 Autoset, and the ribs were away from the outlet hose port, same as shown on page 1 of this thread.
My guess is it doesn't make a difference. Those ribs could be there to make it easier to mold the part or remove it from the mold.
BTW, that tube looks exactly like an automotive part called a Mass Airflow Sensor. The baffles inside straighten out the air flow
and eliminate turbulence so that an air flow sensor can get an accurate reading.

Another baffle solved!